Sunday 3 October 2010

Holiday Walks Part One: Moel Ysgyfarnogod & Foel Penolau

As the two walks I've recently done on holiday in North Wales are far removed from the Pennines I thought I would post some notes and photos of them both on my blog page.

Moel Ysgyfarnogod and Foel Penolau are hardly the best known summits in the Snowdonia National Park. In fact outside the world of Hewitt and Nuttall baggers they are probably hardly known at all. Yet it was these two summits that were the objective of my first walk in Snowdonia for over 4 years.

The main reason for choosing the route (a variation on that in the Nuttall's 'Mountains of England and Wales') was that it promised to have some exciting rock scenery but at the same time was fairly modest in terms of distance and total ascent.

The walk proved to be everything I hoped it would be. There was some fine mountain tarns (or 'llyns' in Welsh), the paths on the ascent at least were excellent including an enjoyable path that slanted above Llyn Eiddew Bach to Llyn Du below the cliffs of Moel Ysgyfarnogod.

Foel Penolau is reputed to be among the best defended summits in Wales, the summit being a large cap of volcanic rock with only a couple of places where ordinary walkers can breach the crags to scramble to the top. In fact we may have struggled to find the route up if we had not met a group of walkers on Moel Ysgyfarnogod, including a member of the Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Team, who showed us the way. Rather strangely the summit of Foel Penolau, once attained, looked at first glance if it was covered in layer of limestone pavement despite the fact that, as mentioned, the rock is much older in origin.

Situated at the northern end of the Rhinogydd range both Moel Ysgyfarnogod and Foel Penolau have a stunning vista of the North Snowdonia mountains. Indeed Wynn, the experienced walker from the Ogwen Mountain Rescue Team, stated the opinion that it was one of the best views in North Wales. I haven't visited enough mountains in North Wales to make such a claim but I would be surprised if there were many finer views.

I wanted to return via a different route to the Nuttalls mainly because I wanted to visit the curious cairn of Bryn Cader Faner. This meant an initially pathless descent from Foel Penolau where I managed to go up above my left knee in one the smallest patches of bog I've come across. This was kharma punishing me for my claims to be an experienced bog trotter to the Welsh walkers we had left on Foel Penolau.

This was an excellent walk and one I would heartily recommend to anyone going walking in Wales, especially if they have already visited the more famous tops.


Llyn Eiddew Bach

Looking north to Snowdon

Looking across to the hills of the Lleyn Peninsula

Moel Ysgyfarnogod and Foel Penolau

On the summit of Moel Ysgyfarnogod

The rocky top of Foel Penolau from Moel Ysgyfarnogod

The scramble to the summit of Foel Penolau was across these boulders

The top of Foel Penolau

Lisa on Foel Penolau

Panorama of North Snowdonia from Foel Penolau

Looking back up at Foel Penolau

The ancient cairn of Bryn Cader Faner

3 comments:

  1. It's a splendid area at the northern end of the Rhinogs, it has both superb views and intense local interest too. There is just one breach in the battlements of Penolau that we found, a fantastic mountain.
    Be sure to make the traverse from Ysgafarnogod to Rhinog Fawr one day, that's where the famous skewed landscape really kicks in.

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  2. Funnily enough the Ogwen Mountain Rescue chap we met also extolled the virtues of the ridge walk from Ysgyfarnogod to Rhinog Fawr - apparently there are some fairly spectacular gullies cutting across the ridge.

    I'd heard that there was only one way up and down Foel Penolau but the walkers we met were confident there was also a way off to the north east. We stayed on the summit for a while after they'd headed in that direction and as they didn't come back I assume they made it off safely. Still I wouldn't fancy finding a different route off that top to the one I went up.

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  3. They are right, we approached from the NE on our Rhinogs 4-day backpack in 2004, starting from Trawsfynydd and walking over Moel y Gyrafolen. It's a straightforward walk onto the rocky top as I recall.

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